Posted on Oct 31, 2009 under Scuba Fins |
ok im buying some gear for SCUBA diving and i found a snorkel, fin, and mask set. I would like to know if its any good. Heres the link to the product.
http://www.navyseals.com/store/detail.aspx?ID=1588
also
i found these dive boots on the same site. if you could also say anything about those too.
http://www.navyseals.com/store/detail.aspx?ID=27
and yes i do like the Navy SEALs lol
Depends what kind of diving you are doing and where you will be diving. I would never buy a black silicone mask unless I was into underwater photography. Having the silicone rubber all black will cut out lots of light from the water and reduce your visibility, which is perfect if you are a serious photographer but a disadvantage if you’re not. Plus other divers will snigger at you as they look like gimp masks.
The fins look quite short, if you have powerful legs and a strong fin kick these will be fine, if you don’t, longer fins will give you more propulsion through the water – not too long though or they’ll make your legs ache.
The snorkel doesn’t look like it has a purge valve, which is a one way valve at the bottom of the J which you can blow excess water out of, these are much easier to use than normal J shape snorkels.
As for the boots……. If you are diving from the shore where you will have to walk over rocks etc. they would be just the job. They look better for walking in than diving, if they are not flexible they will seriously hurt your ankles while you are finning. Iif you’re diving from a boat or shore diving on sandy and gravelly surfaces the boots at the bottom of the page with the mask snorkel and fins will be perfect.
The gear looks good but it’s expensive and you can get better for your money. You are better off visiting a dive shop where you can try the gear on before buying. Mares are one of the best makes of fins on the market. Clear silicon masks will give you more visibility and it’s essential you try before you buy to find the best fit for your face shape. To test the mask fold the strap in front of it, put the mask up to your face ensuring your hair isn’t trapped under it then breathe in through your nose, a good mask fit will stick to your face in this position only coming off when you breathe out. Check the bit below your nose doesn’t sit low on your lip or it will leak when you hold the regulator in your mouth as it will break the seal.
Happy diving.
xx
Posted on Oct 31, 2009 under Scuba Regulator |
Today I did my first confined scuba dives. It was great, except when I took my mask off underwater. When breathing normally through my regulator, my nose keeps on blowing bubbles, whether I’m inhaling or exhaling. My instructor says he has never seen something like it. What is my problem?
I don’t think that there is actually physically anything wrong with you. It might just be a delay from your previous exhalation from the air in your sinus cavities. In scuba you are taught to inhale deeper and exhale a little more than normal. As long as there is no pain in the sinus area as you descend there shouldn’t be a problem.
You may notice this by breathing in through your mouth and exhaling through your nose and mouth at the same time. The time it takes for the air to be exhaled through the mouth is shorter than the length of time to exhale through your nose.
As long as you aren’t having water going up the nose you are probably the envy of those who have mask clearing problems.
Posted on Oct 31, 2009 under Scuba Gear |
I have recently passed PADI open water and was hoping to get kitted out for Scuba diving. How do I find out what equipment I need and approximately how much will this cost?
Is it a good idea to look for this second hand? Thanks.
You need to give us more detail: where you are in the world, where you plan to dive, how often you hope to go diving, stuff like that. (Where did you do your OWD course?)
In defence of the PADI system, the OWD course DEscribes scuba equipment, it doesn’t PREscribe it, for the simple reasons that: one set of equipment is not suitable for all diving situations; and different people have different needs and preferences.
It’s the Instructor’s job to advise students appropriately for the local conditions, but they can’t be expected to provide full and detailed advice for all other possible diving locations in the world. (e.g. What experience does an Instructor in Thailand have of ice diving in Norway?). That’s what the PADI Continuing Education program is for.
The advice given so far is mostly good, although beware of people foisting their personal kit preferences on you (e.g. unlike a previous answerer, I think the Mares Volo fins are flimsy, and too expensive: Mares Avanti Quattros are cheaper, and more robust, BUT your finning technique affects what fin is best for YOU).
As a new diver, I would recommend you to get yourself the basics first, starting with the thing on which the greatest amount of underwater comfort depends: your mask. Also a pair of boots, especially if you have very big or very small feet, as clubs and resorts tend to have fewer pairs (and they tend to be replaced less often) at the upper and lower ends of the size range.
If you have a non-standard shape (i.e. very tall and thin, or short and wide), it might be good to have your own suit as well, as resort rentals rarely fit well (and can be quite battered). The question of what kind of suit you get depends on where you want to dive.
A modular 3- or 4-piece wetsuit will cover most warm-temperate to tropical conditions (20-30°C water temp.), but won’t be so good for cool-temperate (15-20°C) or cold (less than 15°C) waters. For those you’d need a thick semi-dry or even a drysuit (but buoyancy control is sllightly different with a drysuit, so learn how to use one in shallow controlled conditions before you take it into open water).
Also, in my experience, most OWD students on resort courses have the greatest difficulty getting their heads round the dive tables (usually because there isn’t really the time that they need to spend on learning how to use them). So a computer is a very good investment, as you can learn to use it in your own time, between dives/holidays, and it means you don’t have to rely on resort-hire gauges of dubious accuracy, or learn how to read a new computer with every holiday.
(OPINION: I like the SUUNTO brand of computers, because they’re fairly intuitive to use, and easy to read. The Gekko is a good entry-level comp, and is also Nitrox capable, if you choose to go that way later.)
You can start thinking about buying the more expensive bits, i.e. BCD, regulator, cylinder later on, once you’ve tried a few brands out and decided what you like (and don’t bother buying a cylinder unless you’ll be wanting to dive regularly, and locally: there’s no point taking it on a plane!).
The better dive shops will quite often allow you to ‘try before you buy’ during their pool sessions, or exchange gear that’s not quite right (assuming you haven’t damaged it)–that’s part of what makes them a ‘better’ dive shop. Obviously this does not hold for second-hand gear, and usually not for Internet dive shops either (check their refund/return policy first).
As far as second-hand gear goes in general: check your source. Do you know them? Do you trust them? Can they show that the BCD/regulator/whatever has been well looked after? It might be worth thinking about buying ex-club/diveshop rental gear, as that will be cheaper than buying new, but it still has to be ’saleable’ (i.e. maintenance has to be documented, and you have legal protection against being sold shoddy gear), Again, the ‘better’ shops/clubs will renew their gear regularly, so it shouldn’t be too battered.
Don’t be afraid to ask questions and shop around. And if you feel that someone’s being too pushy and not considering you as an individual, take your custom elsewhere. This is going to be YOUR gear, on which YOU will be depending underwater.
Good luck, and have fun.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009 under Scuba Gear |
Yea they are reli small, so they can get 2 all the pearls and into the small spaces. They have to have reli big lung capacity and they are usually children. If u want to get a better lung capacity just practice holding ur breathe for as long as possible, u will be able to do it 4 longer, the more u practice. The pearl divin i really dangerous, cause the divers can drown underwater, by not comin up in time, or from bein knocked unconious and then drownin. They can also be deaf cause the pressure blown their ear-drums. It is reli dangerous.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009 under Scuba Fins |
I am considering buying aqua sphere alpha fins for lane swimming but i don’t know if they are the right size as they look like Scuba Fins. should I buy them or are they too big?
One size fit most. Don’t think they would be a good choice for Scuba Diving.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009 under Scuba Gear |
If possible both cheap and good quality for delivery to VIC Australia.
Cheers
Kenny
Buying Scuba Gear online can have it’s pitfalls. If it needs to fit you, not somebody else and if it’s part of life support, like a reg set don’t buy it online. Hit your local dive shop. It’s no good if it doesn’t fit, compatible with other gear or possibly a factory second. Things like dive knives, gloves and the like, sure, knock yourself out. But body exposure protection and regs are not something you should be purchasing online. You also need to think ahead for your gear service. If your local dive shop doesn’t deal those regs you bought online, you’ll be shipping them off to whomever you bought them from ( paying for that too) and not seeing them for awhile. Then there’s the question of warranty etc.
Chances are, you’ll get just as good a deal hitting your local shop. If you’re buying it all, they’ll usually toss in a hefty discount..
Posted on Oct 22, 2009 under Scuba Dive equipment |
I am going to start scuba diving as a hobby and am looking to get some opinions on what type of scuba diving equipment to buy.
UPDATE!!! I’m looking at this mainly as a hobby but also i’m looking at joining the local dive team as i’m in Law Enforcement. If that makes a difference. Thanks
If you’re going to dive "as a hobby" then you’re probably not going to do high-end diving (Tek, photography, cave/wreck, etc.)
That means you don’t have to spend wagon loads of money on expensive gear.
As with anything, there are ‘discount’ grades of gear and opportunities to spend too much.
Get connected with a local dive shop that has a good reputation among local divers. That’s how you want to handle purchase and maintenance of critical life support – specifically your regulator. DO NOT EVER buy this kind of stuff from an online vendor.
Wet suits and gloves and accessories you can buy online once you know what size and what you like. I actually have a wetsuit that I bought used and have gotten good service from it.
Personally, I won’t buy a mask that I can’t try on first.
Fins will last a very long time if maintained and they’re not expensive to buy at the dive shop.
Don’t get in a hurry to buy gear. Try out several kinds as rented equipment first. You’ll especially want to see what kind of instruments you like before spending the bucks on gages or a computer.
Posted on Oct 22, 2009 under Scuba Wetsuits |
I’m getting certified and I have a wetsuit, but I’m not sure if diving suits have to be a certain thickness or not. My suit is a Rip Curl and its pretty nice. Let me know if I can use it.
Depending on the water temp, your wetsuit should work fine.
In more tropical climates, some people will even leave out their wetsuit altogether.
If you’re diving the Puget Sound however, it will be a much different story. Diving that with a core warmer, farmer john, hood, and gloves, I was a freaking popsicle after 45 minutes.
Posted on Oct 22, 2009 under Scuba Gear |
I have a phone that is unlocked and will accept other gsm carriers, but don’t know if I should bring it. I didn’t plan on bringing the laptop, maybe the ipod though
SHARK REPELLANT UNLESS YOU DONT INTEND TO RETURN